Author: Human Animal Science

Categories
Philosophy Research

How do you pronounce “Zoology”?

Zoology pronciation

The word zoology is one of the most mispronounced words in the English language, even for Zoologists.

To make matters worse, the common pronunciation differs depending on which country you’re from.

For example, if you’re an American and call it Zoo-ology (like, Animal Zoo, and ology as in biology) then you’re wrong.

If you’re British, or Australian, then you’re oddly more correct, as this is more the rule than the exception.

However, the most correct pronunciation based on the spelling is Zo-ology, where “Zo” rhymes with “No”. Try saying “No-ology”, then replacing the “N” sound with a “Z” sound.

How to Pronounce Zoology
Source: English Speaking Practice YouTube channel (see below)

Not convinced?

Let’s dig a little deeper into the zoology pronunciation…

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Zoology pronunciation according to the Oxford English Dictionary

The Oxford English Dictionary is widely recognised as one of the most credible and authoritative sources for the English language, both for thoroughness and historical merit.

You would therefore hope it gives us an answer on how to pronounce zoology, but you’re mistaken.

Hop over to the Oxford English Dictionary page on Zoology, and locate the box How is the noun zoology pronounced?

You will find four variations. Two British English, and two U.S. English. Each has a “play” button – try them all, then come back here.

For reference, the four pronunciations are as follows:

  • British English
    • zoo-OL-uh-jee
    • zoh-OL-uh-jee
  • U.S. English
    • zoo-AH-luh-jee
    • zoh-AH-luh-jee

I expect this has left you even more confused?

It did for me.

How do Zoology students pronounce Zoology?

This may differ from region to region, but this is a quote from a Zoology graduate:

As a Zoology graduate, I know nobody who pronounces it zo-ology, and I know a great many who pronounce it zoo-ology.

What do the Americans say about the pronunciation of Zoology?

I scouted YouTube and found the following video from English Speaking Practice to be quite good.

The video explains the different pronunciations (or mispronunciations) of zoology, comparing the word Zoology to other words ending in “ology” such as Biology, Anthropology, Epidemiology, and so forth.

You will note at the beginning of the video, the speaker raises the point the pronunciation zoo-ology would require another o.

However, he fails to mention the point no word in the English language is spelt with three o’s.

That would be, just, odd.

(No, “Wooo” is not a proper word.)

The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines Zoology as “a branch of biology concerned with the classification and vital phenomena of animals”. This clarifies the “ology” part, and we all know the word “Zoo” is associated with animals, which is why Zoo-ology sounds more natural, and why it’s easy to understand why most Zoologists call it such.

If you took the time to watch the above video, you will now be convinced Zo-ology is the correct pronunciation, which is technically correct given the number of o’s.

But I’m sure you know the English language is rife with oddities. Should you care?

I don’t think so.

Especially if you’re British or Australian.

Why you should pronounce Zoology as Zoo-ology

Many words in the English language are pronounced differently to how they appear on paper.

Let’s start with an example:

  • Worcester Sauce.

Try asking for that in a British pub. Worchester sauce is pronounced “WUSS-tuh-sheer sauce”, after the English town it hails from.

Many Brits shorten Worchester Sauce further to be “WUSS-tuh sauce”. This is incorrect, but still perfectly acceptable and understood (unless you’re a die-hard Olde English teacher).

If you ask for WUSS-tuh sauce in a British pub, you’ll get exactly the sauce you want, without any confusion or baffled expressions.

Try it.

How about Quinoa?

Quinoia is not pronounced “Quin-wa” like many would think. It’s pronounced “Keen-wa”.

Find any other word in the English language starting with “Qu” which is pronounced “Kee”. The Queen of England, God bless her, would turn in her grave to hear herself called the Kee-een of England.

When I moved from the UK to Australia I asked a girl out on a date to the cinema. She corrected my pronunciation, which made me (1) feel idiotic, and (2) baffled I had pronounced the word incorrectly for the first 30 years of my life.

I pronounced it Cine-mar, and not Cine-ma.

How could I get this wrong?

I later came to the realisation (while on the phone to my dear mother) the British and Australian pronunciations were different. Credit to Australia for having the more technically correct pronunciation, but the English pronunciation ends in mar. At least in the region of England I grew up.

You can therefore conclude, the pronunciation of Zoology can be a personal preference, or regional preference. Therefore, you may pronounce Zoology the way which sounds better to you.

Personally I prefer Zoo-ology. It sounds more natural in the spoken word.

You can pronounce it Zo-ology, and I will completely understand you, and won’t be offended in any way.

I’m glad we don’t write it “zooology”. If we did, it would likely be the most misspelt word in the English language.

How do you pronounce Zoology, and why?

Categories
Horses Research

How Do Genetics Affect a Horses Behaviour?

A large part of a horses behaviour is learned, but did you know there are some behaviours which are determined by genetics?

These include:

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Eyesight

Horses’ eyes see independently to the front, side and rear at the same time. They have good sideways vision, which is why a horse may shy, when a rider least expects it, at something glimpsed from the corner of its eye.

Horses have blind spots both to the front and rear, making it difficult to focus on objects directly in front. To bring an object into focus, they must raise and lower their heads. They are believed to be colour-blind and to have difficulty distinguishing small objects such as rabbits or birds, but they are highly sensitive to sudden movements.

Hearing and Smell

Both of these senses are well developed in the horse. Horses can hear tones higher than humans can, and may be frightened by a noise that the rider does not notice. Sudden or loud noises are especially upsetting to horses, while calm gentle voice tones are pacifying and will generally elicit a good response.

On windy days, horses often become unsettled because they cannot hear or smell the usual sounds and scents. They can become unsettled by unfamiliar scents. When a colt is introduced to a saddle and blanket, it should be allowed to smell the new objects for the first few times it is saddled.

Skin Sensitivity

Horses’ skin is highly sensitive, especially at the mouth, feet, flanks, neck and shoulders. This makes these areas useful in training and handling. Some horses are more sensitive than others and extra care must be taken when grooming them.

Memory and Learning Ability

Horses’ brains are very small for their size and their behaviour is governed by instinct rather than reason. They are considered to have a very good memory which is why they can be trained and remember what they have learned. They learn through a system of repetition, rewards and correction (conditioning and shaping). To ensure successful conditioning, the rewards or corrections must be given immediately after the action because the horse will not connect the behaviour with the trainer’s response if there is a delay between them.

Herd Instinct

Horses in the wild band together and each horse has its’ place in the social hierarchy. A single leader exerts authority over the other members of the herd. This instinct to look for and defer to leadership allows trainers to exert control, providing that person gives clear, consistent and calm instructions and handling.

The herd instinct also means that when a new horse is introduced to other horses, it must be watched carefully because the horses may injure each other while they try to establish their place in the hierarchy.

Categories
Animal Welfare Horses

How Often Do Horses Need Shoeing?

How Often Do Horses Need Shoeing?

As a horse owner in Australia you may be wondering how often do horses need shoeing?

Horses are magnificent creatures, and a horse lover yourself you will know their hooves are crucial to their overall health and well-being.

Proper hoof care is essential to keep your horse healthy and comfortable, and shoeing is an important part of that care.

But how often do horses need shoeing?

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The Fundamentals of Horse Shoeing

Shoeing a horse involves attaching a metal shoe to his hoof to protect it and provide traction on different surfaces. Horses that are ridden frequently or used for work often need shoes to protect their hooves from excessive wear and tear.

However, not all horses need shoes, and the frequency of shoeing can vary depending on the horse’s use and hoof health.

What Affects Timeframe of Shoeing?

One of the most common reasons for shoeing is to provide extra support and protection to your horse’s hooves if they commonly work on hard or uneven terrain.

For example, horses which are used for jumping, racing, or trail riding may need more frequent shoeing as they’re susceptible to more excessive wear and tear. In contrast, horses used mainly for leisurely trail rides or kept in a paddock may not need shoes as frequently.

The frequency of shoeing also depends on the horse’s hoof health. Horses with weak or brittle hooves may need to be shod more often to protect them from further damage. Additionally, horses with conditions such as laminitis or navicular disease may require special shoeing techniques or frequent shoeing to manage their condition.

So, How Often Should you Shoe Your Horse?

The general rule of thumb is to have your horse shod every 6-8 weeks, but this can vary depending on the horse’s use and hoof health.

Regular check-ups with a farrier are essential to determine the best shoeing schedule for your horse.

It’s also important to note not all horses need shoes. Barefoot horses can do well if their hooves are strong and healthy, and they are not used for strenuous work or riding on hard surfaces. However, barefoot horses require regular trimming and maintenance to keep their hooves healthy.

A Final Thought on How Often Do Horses Need Shoeing

In conclusion, shoeing is an essential part of a horse’s hoof care routine, and the frequency of shoeing depends on the horse’s use and hoof health.

As a responsible horse owner it is essential to work with a knowledgeable farrier to determine the best shoeing schedule for your horse. Remember to schedule regular check-ups and maintain good hoof care practices to keep your horse healthy, happy, and comfortable.

FAQ

What types of horse shoes are available?

There are several types of horse shoes available, including steel, aluminum, and synthetic shoes. The type of shoe used will depend on the horse’s needs, the terrain it works on, and the type of work it performs.

Is shoeing painful for horses?

Shoeing should not be painful for horses if it is done correctly. However, the process of shoeing can be uncomfortable for horses, as it involves holding up their legs for extended periods of time and the noise and vibrations from the tools used.

Who can shoe a horse?

Only trained and licensed farriers or blacksmiths should shoe horses. It is a skilled profession that requires specialised knowledge of equine anatomy and hoof care. Attempting to shoe a horse without proper training and equipment can result in injury to the horse or the handler.

Categories
Pets

Successful Fishkeeping: Did You Know?

You may think fishkeeping is the simplest when it comes to pets, but it isn’t. Successful fishkeeping is about knowledge, technique, and skill.

  • Did you know? To successfully maintain a Marine aquarium, You MUST run a Protein Skimmer to remove harmful dissolved organics from your water.
  • Did you know? You MUST replace the carbon in your filter every 4-6 weeks. Failure to remove old carbon can result in toxins leeching back into your aquarium, poisoning your fish!
  • Did you know? Tap water kills all of the good bacteria that reside in your filter which break down your fish’s waste. To maintain a healthy aquarium, and avoid ammonia and nitrite spikes, only wash your filter media in a bucket of water siphoned from your aquarium.
  • Did you know? Using a gravel vacuum is an easy and efficient way to carry out your fortnightly water changes. Not only does it help by removing old, polluted water from your tank, it also helps by removing all the detritus (fish poo!) that is trapped in your gravel.
  • Did you know? Aquarium light bulbs lose their growing power over time, long before the bulb actually blows! Ideally, to maintain healthy, rapid plant and coral growth, your bulbs should be changed as follows; WHITE (plant) – Every 12 months. BLUE (coral) – Every 6 months. REPTILE – Every 6 months. METAL HALIDE – Every 12-18 months. COMPACT FLUROS – Every 12 months.
  • Did you know? Fish are like people. You can put two people in the same room and they may or may not get along. Although we try our hardest to recommend fish that are compatible, we can’t always guarantee that the fish you choose will get along in your aquarium at home. Just remember, fish have personalities too!!! And just because “your mate did it” doesn’t necessarily mean it will work for you!
  • Did you know? Overfeeding is one of the most common causes of “mysterious” fish death in the home aquarium. A lot of the time, the instructions on the back of the packet direct you to feed way too much food for your fish, which can result in bloating and severe water quality issues. To avoid overfeeding you fish and seriously depleting your water quality, feeding should be only one person’s job, and the amount of food given should be limited to an amount that is TOTALLY CONSUMED by your fish in about 30 seconds (even if your fish still look hungry afterwards!). Although a great treat for your fish, Bloodworms are exactly that, a TREAT. To keep your fish healthy and happy, bloodworm should only form part of your fish’s diet.

What do you know about successful fishkeeping? Add your knowledge to the comments below.

Categories
Pets

Keeping Siamese Fighting Fish as Pets

As part of our Fish series, here is a beginners guide to keeping Siamese Fighting Fish (in Australia).

Siamese Fighting Fish (or Betta Splendens).

Siamese Fighting fish make great first pets, but like all pets, they need a little bit of knowledge, care and attention to ensure that you get the most enjoyment from your fighter.

Here’s a quick rundown on keeping Siamese Fighting Fish as pets.

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Water

Regardless of the size of the aquarium or bowl your fighter is in, water quality must be kept to a high standard.

This means regular water changes (i.e. at least 100% fortnightly depending on size of aquarium/bowl and the amount of food your fish is fed).

Gravel cleans either using a gravel vacuum or by washing the gravel under the tap should also be performed on a regular basis.

Water must be de-chlorinated to remove the harmful chlorine found in our tap water, and the pH value is best at neutral – 7.0. This can easily be achieved by using Seachem’s Betta Basics.

Water movement should also be kept to a minimum. I.e. Siamese fighting fish aren’t suited to aquariums with a strong powerhead or current.

Temperature

Siamese fighting fish originate from warm water and should always be kept above 18°C. This means in winter you will need a small aquarium heater.

Temperament

Male Siamese fighting fish are extremely aggressive towards each other and generally towards females when not breeding as well.

Males therefore cannot be kept together.

However, they are usually peaceful to all other fish so can successfully be kept in community aquariums providing there are no other fin-nipping fish.

Feeding

Ideally, feed your fighter small floating pellets such as Hikari Betta Bio. Live blackworm, freeze-dried blackworm and frozen bloodworm make good treats that should only be feed on occasion.

We recommend feeding your fighter approximately 2-3 Hikari Betta Bio pellets only once a day.

It is also a good idea to skip one day a week to help prevent a fast build up of toxic ammonia from fish wastes.

Breeding

Fighters are not difficult to breed and given the right care, will generally breed on their own. Males will blow a bubble nest to show they are ready to breed.

The willing female will then lay her eggs on the ground which are then scooped up and fertilised before being placed in the bubble nest by the male. The female must then be removed to prevent the male from bullying her. Once the eggs have hatched into fry, the male must also be removed and the fry raised on their own.

Categories
Animal Welfare Management Pets Philosophy Wildlife

Rainbow Lorikeets – Pet or Pest?

Rainbow Lorikeets - Pet or Pest?

Rainbow Lorikeets were introduced to Australia in the 1960s and quickly grew in population size. Their natural habitat is rainforest, costal bush and woodland areas.

Due to not being native the Rainbow Lorikeet is both loved and hated by Australians, so let’s consider – are they a pet or a pest?

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Why are Rainbow Lorikeets a pest in the wild?

Rainbow Lorikeets can be aggressive towards other native parrots, especially around nesting hollows. This prevents other native parrots from nesting, and since the introduction of the bird they have been known to throw Australian Ringneck nestlings from their home.

This is the key reason they are considered pests in Australia, and research has shown they disrupt the balance of native Australian birds and wildlife.

Why do Rainbow Lorikeets make good pets?

Putting the issues with Rainbow Lorikeets in the Australian environment aside, many Australians keep them as pets.

Whilst these birds are known to be aggressive around other parrots, as pets they are beautiful birds who love human company. Owners of Rainbow Lorikeets will tell you how chatty these birds are, with a playful and highly interactive nature. Simply put, they quickly become a part of the family.

They love to entertain and show off their bubbly personalities, both to you and your guests.

Rainbow Lorikeets also enjoy the company of the same species, especially when raised from a nestling upwards. There’s a saying about two birds being better than one, which is true for these birds.

Why do they NOT make a good pet?

Before you go out and buy one, lets take a look at the flipside.

Rainbow Lorikeets are messy.

Their feaces needs to be cleaned every other day, as if it isn’t it quickly becomes very unpleasant. Loris can also projectile deficate from their cage, which is due to their daily nectar diet along with fresh fruit.

Some owners prefer to use dry nectar as opposed to wet nectar which can help make their poops less “squirty”.

Lorikeets like to splash around in their water baths, usually twice per day, meaning the water goes all over the floor. You’ll be surprised at the mess they can make.

Male and Female Loris appear the same, so if you have two then it’s worth getting a DNA analysis by a vet.

Like other parrots Rainbow Lorikeets can be noisy, so make sure you get on with your neighbours if they’re in close proximity! 

Do you own a Rainbow Lorikeet? Are they a pest or a pet?

Categories
Pets

Do turtles make good pets?

Do turtles make good pets?

Have you ever wondered to the end of a jetty and seen a turtle swimming around, then wondered if they make good pets?

Admittedly they’re not the cheapest pet to keep, but with a suitable terrarium they can make wonderful pets.

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What turtles make good pets in Australia?

The most common turtles to have as a pet are the long-necked and eastern snake necked turtles.

Even though these are found in the wild, you are only allowed to keep them as pets if they are sold from pet shops or licensed breeders who specialise in them.

Wherever you live in Australia you’ll likely find a local (and reputable) breeder, and it’s worth joining a community of owners on social media where you can find help and advice.

How to house a turtle at home

Space is essential for keeping a turtle as a pet, and you will need both an indoor and outdoor area for them to be comfortable.

Indoor Housing

Pet turtles must be kept in a specialised terrarium, and you must ensure it is large enough to suit their needs.

Shell grit and sand must cover the flooring, with water deep enough for your turtle to immerse his whole body. The terrarium will also need a log big enough for the turtle to use to climb out of the water and back onto land. 

Outside Housing

The outdoor area must be big enough for the turtle to roam around in, and you will want to ensure he cannot dig his way out. Yes, turtles dig.

A pond is a necessity for your turtle to immerse his body into, and it is essential you keep the pond clean. Investing in a pond which is easy to clean is a good idea.

The outside housing should have shelter for protection. Options are logs, bushes, or rocks, but you must insure your turtle can escape full sun. 

Feeding a Pet Turtle 

Turtles eat meat and plants, and it is recommended these are fed in the water.

When you bring home your pet turtle it is recommended you buy turtle food from the pet shop rather than supermarket or butchers. It’s common for new owners to feed a homemade diet which is too fattening for them, so keep that in mind until you feel confident.

It is essential for calcium and other nutrients to be present in their diet on a regular basis, which is why a specialised turtle food may be a safer option.

Do you have a pet turtle in Australia, or elsewhere, and what advice would you give a new turtle owner?

Categories
Behaviour Pets

Alexandrine Parrots – Why they’re named after Alexander the Great

Alexandrine Parrots

Everyone knows Alexander the Great but does everyone know “The Great Alexandrine” named after him?

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What’s the deal with Alexandrine Parrots?

Alexandrine Parrots, or Alexandrine Parakeets, are known for their stubbornness and self-know superiority. They know what they do and don’t like, and will forcibly let you know.

In saying that, when you are the “chosen one”, usually male Alexandrines prefer the female in the household and the female Alexandrines prefer the male in the household, the parrot will show great affection and be more patient.

Keep that in mind if you decide to buy one of these beautiful birds, and make sure you buy a bird who is the opposite sex to you. In that way, your partner will be in awe of the parrot’s devotion to you instead of them.

The male Alexandrines can be distinguished by the black ring around the neck which appears at roughly two years of age.

Behaviour and lifestyle

Alexandrine Parrots easily amuse themselves when there is no human interaction by biting wooden toys, talking, or whistling to themselves. They love grazing through their food bowl with a tendency to pick out their favourite snacks.

If you’re looking at adopting an Alexandrine Parrot you must invest in a large bird cage due to their tail and wingspan, otherwise they will be unable to move around the cage effectively and can become destressed. Their environment plays a huge part on their health and mood.

You must be aware that some days an Alexandrine will be your best friend and the next day will want to bite your finger off. Yes, these birds are very prone to mood swings!

Many owners of Alexandrine Parrots will state their mood depends on “what side of the bed he/she woke up on”.

Why are Alexandrine Parrots named after Alexander the Great?

Alexandrine Parrots have the characteristics of a great leader, which you will quickly come to notice in their company.

They will always be by your side through thick and thin, testing your inner self, but always rewarding you with their beautiful and clever presence.

Once you really get to know your Alexanderine you will come to realise why he/she is named after Alexander the Great. 

Categories
Community Health Management

Organic Pest Management – Doing Things The Wrong Way

Organic Pest Management

Evidence can be seen as far back as 100 years on how gardeners have been taught to control pests and disease using synthetic chemicals the effects of which were never thought of let alone predicted.

In the 1960′s Rachel Carson, in her book “Silent Spring”, brought to life the realisation that many pesticides are not selective and have become universal.

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The problem with pesticides

Persistent “Bioaccumulation” through food chains and in air and soil have brought devastation to wildlife and humankind.

A move from stable organochlorine products like DDT, to organophosphorus substances that break down quicker, has only multiplied the number of substances we are exposed to, and slowed facing up to the key issues.

Using a no-selective compound means when predators of particular insect pests are killed by these “non-selective” products, the surviving pest populations continue to expand faster than they would if the predators were still alive.

Hence, the broadcasting of non-selective or “broad-spectrum” pesticides has always proved to be self-defeating.

This behaviour creates imbalances that tend to favour the pests. It also elicits pesticide resistance which increases over subsequent generations to the point a strong resistance becomes the norm.

Did you know this practice can mean a pesticide can become obsolete in just a few years?

Disposal of toxic by-products, and how it effects us

Improper disposal techniques for toxic by-products are only considered “after-the-fact”.

Waiting until after these toxins have contaminated landfill sites, whether the contamination was known or not, is often worse than known broadcast spraying.

Accidental leakage can occur from drums at temporary storage sites or where storage containers have become damaged.

These harmful chemicals have moved into water ways, into storm water systems and by indirect (leakage) and direct (blatant dumping) into our oceans and rivers. Our sea food then becomes the target, which in turn comes back to effect us through consumption.

The fruit and vegetables available at our supermarkets and fresh food outlets are often sampled and checked for pesticide residues. Rarely would this kind of test show zero or low levels of organochlorine compounds.

How constant use of pesticides makes the problem worse

Constant application of synthetic pesticide chemicals usually builds up a resistant strain of pests which the chemical was sprayed to eliminate.

This type of chemical resistance can be seen and proven in many areas including things like chemicals used to control infections in humans (anti-biotics) where we often see resistance build up over time.

Unfortunately regulations governing the use of pesticides are only increased after the damage is done.

Chemicals like this should be banned instead of being released, not restricted after “irreversible damage” is done.

Insecticides are just one of many chemicals used to control pests and disease “after the fact”. Fungicides and herbicides also thrive in a chemical dominant society, and average figures given in most research do not give a complete picture.

Heavy insecticide applications on crops, and what we can do about it

At the moment, growers are relying on heavy insecticide applications which provide an unsatisfactory level of control.

Synthetic pesticides are now, as in the past, being used excessively by commercial vegetable growers, and unfortunately due to varied pricing and farmers wanting to maximise their return, withholding periods are not always observed.

It is obvious to suggest what not to buy, and instead, grow for yourself. A clear message for us consumers is to not buy any fruits or vegetables at the beginning or the end of the season.

The ONLY way to be certain of avoiding the intake of pesticide residues is to grow your own food in total absence of pesticides.

From an organic point of view certifiable standards are available. There are several organic organisations providing guidelines.

In Australia, these include Biodynamic Agricultural Association of Australia (BDAAA), Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA), Organic Growers of Australia, and NASAA, National Association for Sustainable Agriculture Australia,

To some operators, the word “organic” is just another marketing game, but to others, it is a serious commitment.

It is generally considered most organic produce is more expensive, but you will be certain to save and ensure freshness by growing as much as you can in your own garden – this is not only much cheaper, but also much more rewarding for us.

Categories
Behaviour Psychology

Animals who mate for life

Animals who mate for life - Pair of Gibbons

It’s not only humans that are monogamous. There are lots of creatures in the animal world who mate for life.

Some animals have been found to pine and die shortly after a death of a mate, which although sad, shows animals can love each other.

Here is a list of 10 animals who manage a monogamous relationship which many humans find impossible:

  1. Gibbons – These are reportedly the closest primate to humans and studies have proven that the relationship with their mates is also very similar to ours. Gibbons will sit for hours grooming each other (the equivalent to humans sitting on the sofa holding hands), and an established pair will remain faithful to each other for life.
  2. Swans – Often found swimming in pairs, occasionally with several babies in tow, swans have been used to symbolise romance and love on many valentine cards. However romance is not necessarily the reason swans mate for life. It might be a simple case of survival as they share the work of raising their young. The male can look for food whilst the female keeps the eggs and subsequently the chicks safe from predators.
  3. Black Vultures – A look that only a mother can love, or maybe another Black Vulture. There is a strong social structure within the Black Vulture community and any philandering by one of an established pair is swiftly dealt with by others in the group.
  4. French Angelfish – These beautiful creatures, once bonded, are rarely out of sight from one another and will feed, swim and hunt for food in their pairs. Although they are faithful to each other, they are not sociable and will not tolerate other pairs in their territory.
  5. Wolves – Contrary to popular believe a pack of wolves is not a random number of males and females, but a family of mother father and children. As they cubs grow, they too find their own mate for life and move on to form another pack. Packs can live quite closely to each other but do not form a firm bond, much like humans and their neighbours.
  6. Albatross – These birds do not live together, known to fly great distances, once they have bonded with a mate, they will always return to that same mate when it is time to breed. They are famed for their mating dance which is performed each time the pair are reunited.
  7. Termites – Who would have thought it? But this isn’t a warm romantic relationship, some species die shortly after mating, making the lifetime relationship very short indeed.
  8. Prairie Voles – Are the champions of the equal partner relationship. Sharing everything from child rearing to building a nest and hunting, prairie voles work together for the good of the family.
  9. Turtle Doves – Made famous by Shakespeare and are an emblem of love and romance which is celebrated every Christmas; Turtle Doves, once paired will rarely be seen alone.
  10. Bald Eagles – These birds remain monogamous for life but will take another partner if one dies. Even impotency will result in the female looking elsewhere.

This is not a comprehensive list of animals who mate for life, but it gives you an indication animals can be monogamous.